Author Archives: Erick Redcloud
Day 10 - Pahlgam
After Mr. Faiyaz found out I was going to stay an extra day, we decided to head out to Pahlaman. We were not sure if we could go or not as the roads around Nehru Park/Dal Lake were closed due to the Prime Minister of India making a visit to Kashmir.
Now mind you Kashmir (and Jammu) is a state that is disputed between India and Pakistan. The area of Kashmir I am at is controlled by India. Kashmir wishes to be its own country. Kashmir is mostly made up of Muslims, which are feared by Indians due to terrorist attacks (although there have been riots and attacks started by Hindus as well). I would rather not get into the politics of it all.
Mr. Faiyaz rented a car for the day and we headed out towards Pahlgam. On the way to the car, I was informed that Sonya was invited to join us but could not due to the closed roads and the curfew in Shalimar, what a pity.
We went our way on the 3 hour trip as we reached an amazing sites of the gorgeous mountains. Of course we stopped for tea on the way. We ate in Pahlgam and went our way further to the small village of Aru.
Aru was gorgeous, despite all the rain there. The rivers on the way from Palhgam to Aru were the cleanest rivers that I have seen. It makes sense since they are coming from the melting snow from the mountain tops. The drive to Aru was rather an adventure as the roads were poor and narrow. I seemed like were almost going to fall off the cliff at one point. On the road back we picked up a man who needed a ride and also got stuck. We made our way out and headed back to Srinagar.
Trying to get back into Srinagar was impossible. The roads were blocked to the way into Nehru Park/Dal Lake. I was told to try as a tourist to try asking the police office to get me a pass to get us through to my boat house. With no luck trying to get a pass from the lazy police lieutenant, we tried to see if we could get through another route. I told him my story of how I went out of town and I lied and said that I needed to get my bags to leave that night. He told me to wait at my car and waved to me when he started to open the gate. Apparently being a foreigner helped me here, especially since we were right next to the UN Building in Srinagar.
I made my self to Rafiq, my shikara driver who took me to my new room, since my old room was already booked for before I extended my stay 2 days. I ate a nice meal and enjoy the beautiful view of my trip in my head.
Day 9 - Shalimar
I wake up early and had Rafiq pick me up early enough to be able to check emails at a local cyber cafe and make some phone calls. I had decided to stay an extra 2 days in Srinagar since I had loved it so much. I called my contact in Jammu (Pooja’s parents) and let them know I was staying some extra days when Mr. Faiyaz comes from behind me happy to see me.
It seems Mr. Faiyaz seems rather happy to see me as we have become friends at this point. We then head off to some gardens, the Botanical Gardens still closed, Moghal Garden, and Shalimar Gardens.
Shalimar Gardens happens to be Mr Faiyaz’s favorite gardens and we start to plan the next 2 days of extra stay. Mr. Faiyaz was very pleased to hear that I was going to stay 2 extra days.
One thing to note about Mr. Faiyaz, he is an avid tea drinker. We had stopped many times to sit and drink tea. One thing to know about me, I love tea myself. We both enjoyed drinking tea together. He asked me if I would like to drink tea at his sister’s house. I kindly accepted, as we headed out to his sister’s house.
His sister has an amazing house, well crafted and beautiful view. At this place I meet a very kind and sweet young woman by the name of Sonya who I can tell seemed to have a crush on me. She was rather pretty with her Kashmiri features.
We enter the house and proceed to enjoy some tea and talk, rather they talked as my Kashmiri language is rather limited. When talking I had an opportunity to take some wonderful photos including of a girl with the most amazing beautiful eyes I have ever seen. We then head out. Sonya had invited me to stay, actually she invited me to stay the night in their place. I was rather flattered.
Mr. Faiyaz and I head on out and we go to another one of his sister’s place. Mr. Faiyaz has 6 sister and 3 brothers. A rather huge family. At this house I meet a rather nice young man who is rather intersted in computers. We talk and enjoy some company with each other. We then head off to Mr. Faiyaz’s house where I meet his son and soem of his other family. His son practices his English with me.
We then head off to see a nice Mosque which is rather pretty in the way it looks. I was not able to go inside as I am not Muslim. We proceed back to the lake and get my money back from the shawl and proceed to buy a rug and shawl.
I think this day was my favorite day as I was able to really enjoy real Kashmiri life and got to meet real Kashmiri families and see how they are at home. Mr. Faiyaz and I really connected as well.
Day 8 - Gulmarg
Woke up early and meet with Mr Fayaz, a lovely Muslim man who was to be my guide/handler while I was in Srinagar alone. We walked to a parking lot that he seemed to run and own where he set me up with a driver who was to take me to Gulmarg. Gulmarg is known for it’s rich lush green trees and hills/mountains. In the winter it is known to be blanketed with white snow.
The driver, a really nice and slender man who is very talkative, takes me on a 2 hour drive to Gulmarg where it is raining. I stop and eat at restaurant and had the best Paneer I have ever had. I walk out into the pouring rain and make my trek towards the ticket booth where I am to buy a ticket to the gondola that takes me up the mountain to another town.
I wait in the long line and go up the gondola and purchase a ticket to the next phase. There happens to be a huge line, so instead I enjoy the view. All I can say about Gulmarg is that it has be Heaven on earth. It is rather amazingly beautiful with its stunning trees and rolling green hills and snow capped mountains. The view here makes me realize why so many people tell me how amazing Kashmir is. After taking some photos I decide to get a refund on my ticket, because the chaotic unorganized line (which is common in India) to the second phase has not moved one bit. I head back to my driver who takes me back to Srinagar.
When arriving I meet up with Mr Fayaz who takes me to the person who has set me up with my Boat House, Rafiq, a shinkara driver. We go across Dal Lake where we come upon my Boat House room called Lucky Dawn. This room was rather big and well decorated and just pleasant to be in. I drop my stuff off quickly clean up and then head off on a boat ride around Dal Lake.
Rafiq a nice man takes me around an amazingly beautiful lake where I take some fantastic photos and buy some cheap gifts for family from hawkers in boats. He then drops me off at a place where I can buy a shawl. I proceed to look and was pressured into buying shawl for too much money.
I then get dropped off back at land where I am meet up with Mr Faiyaz again. We jump on his bike and head off to see Botanical Gardens which happens to be closed due to Prime Minister coming to Kashmir. We then head off to get something to eat. At this time Mr. Faiyaz has really warmed up to me and me to him. We enjoy dinner and he finds out about the shawl I bought. He saw that I paid nearly 12,000 Rs for a very poor quality shawl and is rather mad and takes me to his friend’s place on the lake.
His friend, a shawl and rug merchant with long hair and a mustache from the 80’s, looks over the shawl and lets me know that I had been ripped off (as I already knew when leaving the place) and proceeded to take me to the place I bought the shawl. There is a bunch of yelling and arguing. Rafiq takes me back to my Boat House room and Mr Fayaz and I make arrangements to see each other the next morning at 11 AM to see the sites and gardens of Srinagar.
Oh what a night.
Day 7 - Srinagar
Wake up early in the morning where Pooja’s sister Vidisha takes me to a depot full of Sumo (jeeps) and Vans who will take you to different destinations. I get a “Traveler” that is to takes me on an 8 hour trip to Srinagar. It was a long and tiring trip. There was a family with me, 2 different pairs of friends and one other traveler. Stopped along the way to enjoy some good foods. Also picked up a wool vest for 300 Rs, a gift for my father.
Now mind you Srinagar is in Kashmir, a state which is controlled by India. Kashmir is a mostly Muslim area which wishes to be its own country. Srinagar is a mostly safe area for tourists.
When arriving in Srinagar the driver was told to drop me off in Lal Chawk so that I could get in touch with my contact. We were stopped in an area known as the TRC (Tourist Receiving Center). He made a call and a man drove up. He told me this was Fayaz, the man I was to meet. In actuality, it was just some one that he said was Fayaz just so he could dump me off. Upon exiting I was swarmed by taxis/moto rickshaw drivers who wanted my money. I fought my past to public phone so that I could phone call my contact, Fayaz.
I called Fayaz, a man with a heavy Arabic/Indian accent, which go to the point, asked where I was and within minutes, a well dressed man, tall dark with a nice demeanor was on a motorbike ready to take me to a place I wished.
We spent the next 2 hours finding a generic hotel in a the area where he works, Lal Chawk, which seems to be a dirty yet bustling shopping area in Srinagar. We also talked and made plans to get to Gulmarg next day.
The room I was in was rather dirty, but much bigger than most American hotels. It was still not a extremely pleasant place to stay, but it was a place to lay my head. I slept as I was to meet with Mr. Fayaz early in the morning to arrange my travel to Gulmarg.
Day 5-6 - Katra
My travel mate, Pooja, and I decide to leave wednesday morning to get to Katra. Katra is a holy city that has the Goddess creator. We take a 2 hour bus trip to get there. When entering the city of Katra we are to meet Pooja’s cousin who happens to own a luxury hotel. This Hotel is rather gorgeous and well designed. It puts just about every hotel I have ever stayed at to shame. Note that I do not really like to stay in luxury hotels. He takes us in and we talk about many things and offers a room to freshen up before we take a hike visit the Goddess’ temple. We take some fantastic photos of the this gorgeous hotel take a courtesy shuttle from the hotel to the pilgrimage entrance.
Now Katra is known for the temple of theVaishno Devi, the creator Goddess of the three major Gods of Hindu religion. She is known for the color red. Also this temple is placed on top of a mountain that is 14 Kilometers high. We climb the mountain, all 14 Km, taking us about 4 1/2 hours, which includes some lively “discussion”. A lot seems to come up when you been hiking for a long time and really tired. We reach the top of the mountain around 3 AM. We spend the night in a dorm and trek back down the mountain while the heat beats down on us. Finally we arrive at the bus depot.
On the ride towards Jammu Pooja gets a phone call informing her that she has an interview back in Bombay for a job. She informs me that she has to leave. We arrive back in Jammu. With the help of Pooja’s parents and helpfulness of Pooja’s cousin I am arranged with a plan to go to Srinagar, with a guide who would help me.
Day 3-4 : Delhi to Jammu
So I got up in the morning had me some delicious parathas and decided to take a walk around Karol Bagh area of Delhi, where I happened to be staying. Just wanted to see what was around. Ran into a very helpful man who reminded me that everything was closed on a Sunday and suggested that I go to the Metro to check out Connaught Place. I took his advice and picked up a belt which I broke in Taipei. Also picked up a torch and a lock for my bag.
I then wondered off Chandni Chowk, famous for all the bazaars and markets there. I got to taste some great street food. Had some break pakoras and chaat. I swear Steven, you would have loved the bazaar, crazier than the ones in Indonesia.
Flowers in Chandi Chawk
After looking all the craziness of the markets and getting lost in them. I found myself back at the metro to get my baring. Took the metro back to the Chandni Chawk and headed to Red Fort which was HOT and very interesting.
I have no clue but it was at Red Fort.
After my long day in Delhi I went to go find my bus I booked the night before to Jammu. I waited and waited and waited and waited… but the bus did not come. Or according to them they said I was late (although i was there at 4:45 when the bus left at 6:00). at about 7:30 the people who ran the little snack area there had some one help me to get on a bus. He was rather helpful and got me on the next bus to Jammu free of charge.
The bus ride was supposed to be able to get me there around 9 am but it was running late. Not only that but my bus was actually headed to Katra as it’s final destination. Not knowing I fell asleep hoping to wake up in Jammu. I missed my stop, and went all the way to Katra, 2 hours away from my final destination. So I took a bus back. The scenery out there is amazing. Katra is a holy city and you could feel that when entering it. It was rahter majestic.
Scenery on the way back from Katra
My travel mate’s sister picked me up from the train station where I was dropped off by the bus, had some amazing indian food and was well received their home.
One thing I learned from the past few days is that Indians very hospitable. From the wonderful guy who helped me in Delhi to get me on my way. To the Amazing family on the bus who barely spoke English entertaining my misadventure to Katra. And the family of my travel mate’s, who have been nothing short of welcoming.
Day 2 - Delhi (It’s Hot)
After a grueling 22 hours of flying I finally land in Delhi. In 22 hours, I have never been fed so much in my life. I was fed 6 meals within 24 hours. And they diabetic meals were actually diabetic safe this time. My flight was a bit delayed but that did not cause any issues. I zoomed through customs and my bag was like one of the first off onto the baggage claim. Found my driver and headed off to my Hostel.
After taking a shower my driver offered to take me to India Gate (which I have seen already). It was nice to see again, this time lit. Allowed me to take some nice photos of the place. Including the following:
Ornament on the side of India Gate
They are working on India Gate to restore it I guess
India Landing
After taking some photos I went to have some food at a place my driver took me to. It was rather expensive for Indian food, but damn It was good. I had the best Mushroom Masala EVER, flavored with a whole lot of garlic and celantro. Open fire roasted peppers with paneer. How DELICIOUS!
After dinner I went to Baha’i Temple or Lotus Temple. It was nice to look at. The rain didn’t phase me one bit. Perhaps because I had already done a sitting (zazen) inside. I took some amazing photos of the place here:
Black and white photo
Black and white cropped in
After all that, my I asked my driver to take me to get me a train ticket for my trip to Jammu the next day. He took me to a touring agency which proceeded to try to rip me off. I already knew what I wanted and how to get it. He was trying to extort more money out of me. I told him my budget, if he could do it then great. He proceeded to give me a quote for $250 to take a car with a driver to Jammu. I walked out of there. It was obvious my driver was getting commission from him.
I proceeded to offer my driver a tip if he got me out of there and straight to my Hostel. He did. I found myself in the coziness of my hostel room. Found myself connected to the free wifi and proceeded to book a Bus for $12.
Over all would say my day was good. I didn’t get conned and I didn’t lose my luggage. I did have a flight delay, but it didn’t hinder my trip at all. Then again now a day who’s flight doesnt get delayed?
Day 1 - Taipei
First day, left SFO with no hitches. Despite how unorganized the boarding process was. but still go in, and I was in no hurry to sit down and wait. The flight was LONG. I tried not to sleep so that I could get used to the time in India, but my heavy eyes defeated me. One good thing is that the diabetic meals were actually diabetic safe. I haven’t had plain yogurt in ages and it was a real treat when I had it for my breakfast.
7 more hours from now I should be landing in Delhi. It will be fun there.
Feel free to follow me on Twitter, Facebook or Tumblr to find out my adventures of my trip.
I still haven’t gotten any request for souvenirs. What do you people want?
1/2 Days Left - ABOUT TIME
Time now that I am on my way to India. Yeah you got it. I am heading to India. The whole visa thing worked out after all. It also did require that I had to do a lot of running around all day. When I got the email stating that my passport was ready to pick up, I danced and was so ecstatic. It makes you realized that you cant really appreciate something until you have to really work hard for it.
Feel free to follow me on Twitter, Facebook or Tumblr to find out my adventures of my trip.
So I am still in need of some souvenir ideas. A wonderful Sari? Something carved of marble? Who wants something from India?
3 Days - India… Maybe
3 more days until I leave to India… maybe. Still having issues with the visa. Almost 3 weeks in and I still cant seem to get a simple tourist visa to India. My luck with traveling to India is still bad. If I do not get a visa I will still have 2 weeks of work off to kill.
So where should I go? I was thinking of hitting up BC Canada, or Las Vegas. Moab would be a great place to hit. Perhaps I should go back to Bali?
Feel free to follow me on Twitter, Facebook or Tumblr to find out my adventures of my trip.
So where should I go? Do you have an opinion on this? If I do end up going to India, does anyone want a souvenir? What should I bring back?