Monthly Archives: June 2010
Photos: Jammu/Kashmir
Me being tired on Trikuta Mountain
It took me a few weeks but I have edited down and sorted my photos from my trip. Took 2200 photos, but I know you don’t want to look at all 2200. They have been edited down to 50. Check them out:
Day 14 - Delhi
A such needed nap that I just had after coming back from a hot day visiting some sites in Delhi. One of the sites I saw was Jama Masjid, a Muslim gigantic mosque. I got off at the metro exit I was to be at and caught a rickshaw to the Jama Masjid. Not know I happen to get arrive at prayer time, so I had to kill some time. I killed some time by getting lost in Chawri Bazar. Luckily I was able to find my way back. Afterwards I paid my ticket and entered the massive mosque, the largest of all of India.
After burning my bare feet on the clay tiles I made my way back to the metro and headed off to another metro stop to catch a rickshaw to Kahn Market. Kahn Market is a bit more upscale market then the usual markets I had been visiting (other than Connaught Place and Ansal Plaza). I kind of liked it though. It had a lot of crafted items. Lots of paper stores, and I have a passion for hand made paper, as I have made some myself. I then ate a pizza restaurant where there seemed to be nothing but rich Indians there. I didn’t mind, as it was a different experience of India I have not experienced yet.
I then made myself back to the place I was staying via Metro and on my way a pretty Indian girl standing next to me was staring at me. I smiled at her and she smiled back with a giggle. I should have hi but i didn’t. Instead made my way back to my room and took a nap.
I now realize that I packed 1 less pair of socks and underwear than I needed. Good thing I am in a center of a clothing market. I will go out later and make sure I get some socks and underwear. Tomorrow morning I start my flight back home.
Day 11-13
So my last day of Srinagar… I did nothing. I sat in my boat house and just sat. It was kind of easy to do since most of Srinagar was shut down due to the Prime Minister’s visit to Kashmir. After around 3 pm the streets were open again and that allowed for the noisy new guests to arrive to the boat. One kid really did not know how to walk and made the whole boat just shake with the thump of his heel, so I decided to go for a walk in Lal Chowk and used the internet. I came back and left the next morning via Sumo to Jammu.
The Sumo driver was not quite the best. Despite having a very modern SUV, I got sick most of the way. I was not the only one. After 10 hour drive, I had finally arrived Jammu where Vijay, Pooja’s father, arrived to pick me up. We went back to their house were I spent the night. The next day I had a flight to Delhi.
One thing I have completely forgotten about India is it’s security measures. If you thought the security you have to go through in the US is bad, wait until you have to go through an airport in India. I went through 6 different security checks at least. I had to verify my luggage. In the process of all the security checks, I must have lost my power supply to my Macbook Pro in all the pulling out of stuff from constant bag checks.
I arrived in Delhi on got a prepaid taxi to take me to my place, but he was a bit lazy and didn’t want to fight the traffic so he dropped me off in the area and i had to walk the way. It is a good thing I know myself around Karol Bagh, since it is the same area I stayed in last time.
After reaching my place of stay, i had then realized that I have lost my power supply so I went to Connaught Place to see if I could find a replacement. I knew I wouldn’t, so I tried to see if I could get myself to Ansel Plaza. I was hooked up with a very kind Sikh auto rickshaw driver who took me to Ansel Plaza and showed me a huge Sikh Temple.
The Sikh temple was rather amazing with a lot going on as well as. The dome was all gold and had amazing architecture. It looked a lot like the Golden Temple in Amritsar. It reminded me of a Buddhist Monastary where everything inside is free, food, sleep, books. There was so much praying and chanting going on. It really got me intrigued in Sikh religion.
I then went back to Karol Bagh via the metro rail and then proceeded to walk through Karol Bagh’s intense market. I proceeded to have something to eat then went back to my room.
Today I will eventually head to Chandni Chawk to get to the Jama Masjid. I may or may not hit up Khan Market, since it is a bit out of the way. Then get back and sleep so I can get used to Pacific Time Zone all over again.
Day 10 - Pahlgam
After Mr. Faiyaz found out I was going to stay an extra day, we decided to head out to Pahlaman. We were not sure if we could go or not as the roads around Nehru Park/Dal Lake were closed due to the Prime Minister of India making a visit to Kashmir.
Now mind you Kashmir (and Jammu) is a state that is disputed between India and Pakistan. The area of Kashmir I am at is controlled by India. Kashmir wishes to be its own country. Kashmir is mostly made up of Muslims, which are feared by Indians due to terrorist attacks (although there have been riots and attacks started by Hindus as well). I would rather not get into the politics of it all.
Mr. Faiyaz rented a car for the day and we headed out towards Pahlgam. On the way to the car, I was informed that Sonya was invited to join us but could not due to the closed roads and the curfew in Shalimar, what a pity.
We went our way on the 3 hour trip as we reached an amazing sites of the gorgeous mountains. Of course we stopped for tea on the way. We ate in Pahlgam and went our way further to the small village of Aru.
Aru was gorgeous, despite all the rain there. The rivers on the way from Palhgam to Aru were the cleanest rivers that I have seen. It makes sense since they are coming from the melting snow from the mountain tops. The drive to Aru was rather an adventure as the roads were poor and narrow. I seemed like were almost going to fall off the cliff at one point. On the road back we picked up a man who needed a ride and also got stuck. We made our way out and headed back to Srinagar.
Trying to get back into Srinagar was impossible. The roads were blocked to the way into Nehru Park/Dal Lake. I was told to try as a tourist to try asking the police office to get me a pass to get us through to my boat house. With no luck trying to get a pass from the lazy police lieutenant, we tried to see if we could get through another route. I told him my story of how I went out of town and I lied and said that I needed to get my bags to leave that night. He told me to wait at my car and waved to me when he started to open the gate. Apparently being a foreigner helped me here, especially since we were right next to the UN Building in Srinagar.
I made my self to Rafiq, my shikara driver who took me to my new room, since my old room was already booked for before I extended my stay 2 days. I ate a nice meal and enjoy the beautiful view of my trip in my head.
Day 9 - Shalimar
I wake up early and had Rafiq pick me up early enough to be able to check emails at a local cyber cafe and make some phone calls. I had decided to stay an extra 2 days in Srinagar since I had loved it so much. I called my contact in Jammu (Pooja’s parents) and let them know I was staying some extra days when Mr. Faiyaz comes from behind me happy to see me.
It seems Mr. Faiyaz seems rather happy to see me as we have become friends at this point. We then head off to some gardens, the Botanical Gardens still closed, Moghal Garden, and Shalimar Gardens.
Shalimar Gardens happens to be Mr Faiyaz’s favorite gardens and we start to plan the next 2 days of extra stay. Mr. Faiyaz was very pleased to hear that I was going to stay 2 extra days.
One thing to note about Mr. Faiyaz, he is an avid tea drinker. We had stopped many times to sit and drink tea. One thing to know about me, I love tea myself. We both enjoyed drinking tea together. He asked me if I would like to drink tea at his sister’s house. I kindly accepted, as we headed out to his sister’s house.
His sister has an amazing house, well crafted and beautiful view. At this place I meet a very kind and sweet young woman by the name of Sonya who I can tell seemed to have a crush on me. She was rather pretty with her Kashmiri features.
We enter the house and proceed to enjoy some tea and talk, rather they talked as my Kashmiri language is rather limited. When talking I had an opportunity to take some wonderful photos including of a girl with the most amazing beautiful eyes I have ever seen. We then head out. Sonya had invited me to stay, actually she invited me to stay the night in their place. I was rather flattered.
Mr. Faiyaz and I head on out and we go to another one of his sister’s place. Mr. Faiyaz has 6 sister and 3 brothers. A rather huge family. At this house I meet a rather nice young man who is rather intersted in computers. We talk and enjoy some company with each other. We then head off to Mr. Faiyaz’s house where I meet his son and soem of his other family. His son practices his English with me.
We then head off to see a nice Mosque which is rather pretty in the way it looks. I was not able to go inside as I am not Muslim. We proceed back to the lake and get my money back from the shawl and proceed to buy a rug and shawl.
I think this day was my favorite day as I was able to really enjoy real Kashmiri life and got to meet real Kashmiri families and see how they are at home. Mr. Faiyaz and I really connected as well.
Day 8 - Gulmarg
Woke up early and meet with Mr Fayaz, a lovely Muslim man who was to be my guide/handler while I was in Srinagar alone. We walked to a parking lot that he seemed to run and own where he set me up with a driver who was to take me to Gulmarg. Gulmarg is known for it’s rich lush green trees and hills/mountains. In the winter it is known to be blanketed with white snow.
The driver, a really nice and slender man who is very talkative, takes me on a 2 hour drive to Gulmarg where it is raining. I stop and eat at restaurant and had the best Paneer I have ever had. I walk out into the pouring rain and make my trek towards the ticket booth where I am to buy a ticket to the gondola that takes me up the mountain to another town.
I wait in the long line and go up the gondola and purchase a ticket to the next phase. There happens to be a huge line, so instead I enjoy the view. All I can say about Gulmarg is that it has be Heaven on earth. It is rather amazingly beautiful with its stunning trees and rolling green hills and snow capped mountains. The view here makes me realize why so many people tell me how amazing Kashmir is. After taking some photos I decide to get a refund on my ticket, because the chaotic unorganized line (which is common in India) to the second phase has not moved one bit. I head back to my driver who takes me back to Srinagar.
When arriving I meet up with Mr Fayaz who takes me to the person who has set me up with my Boat House, Rafiq, a shinkara driver. We go across Dal Lake where we come upon my Boat House room called Lucky Dawn. This room was rather big and well decorated and just pleasant to be in. I drop my stuff off quickly clean up and then head off on a boat ride around Dal Lake.
Rafiq a nice man takes me around an amazingly beautiful lake where I take some fantastic photos and buy some cheap gifts for family from hawkers in boats. He then drops me off at a place where I can buy a shawl. I proceed to look and was pressured into buying shawl for too much money.
I then get dropped off back at land where I am meet up with Mr Faiyaz again. We jump on his bike and head off to see Botanical Gardens which happens to be closed due to Prime Minister coming to Kashmir. We then head off to get something to eat. At this time Mr. Faiyaz has really warmed up to me and me to him. We enjoy dinner and he finds out about the shawl I bought. He saw that I paid nearly 12,000 Rs for a very poor quality shawl and is rather mad and takes me to his friend’s place on the lake.
His friend, a shawl and rug merchant with long hair and a mustache from the 80’s, looks over the shawl and lets me know that I had been ripped off (as I already knew when leaving the place) and proceeded to take me to the place I bought the shawl. There is a bunch of yelling and arguing. Rafiq takes me back to my Boat House room and Mr Fayaz and I make arrangements to see each other the next morning at 11 AM to see the sites and gardens of Srinagar.
Oh what a night.
Day 7 - Srinagar
Wake up early in the morning where Pooja’s sister Vidisha takes me to a depot full of Sumo (jeeps) and Vans who will take you to different destinations. I get a “Traveler” that is to takes me on an 8 hour trip to Srinagar. It was a long and tiring trip. There was a family with me, 2 different pairs of friends and one other traveler. Stopped along the way to enjoy some good foods. Also picked up a wool vest for 300 Rs, a gift for my father.
Now mind you Srinagar is in Kashmir, a state which is controlled by India. Kashmir is a mostly Muslim area which wishes to be its own country. Srinagar is a mostly safe area for tourists.
When arriving in Srinagar the driver was told to drop me off in Lal Chawk so that I could get in touch with my contact. We were stopped in an area known as the TRC (Tourist Receiving Center). He made a call and a man drove up. He told me this was Fayaz, the man I was to meet. In actuality, it was just some one that he said was Fayaz just so he could dump me off. Upon exiting I was swarmed by taxis/moto rickshaw drivers who wanted my money. I fought my past to public phone so that I could phone call my contact, Fayaz.
I called Fayaz, a man with a heavy Arabic/Indian accent, which go to the point, asked where I was and within minutes, a well dressed man, tall dark with a nice demeanor was on a motorbike ready to take me to a place I wished.
We spent the next 2 hours finding a generic hotel in a the area where he works, Lal Chawk, which seems to be a dirty yet bustling shopping area in Srinagar. We also talked and made plans to get to Gulmarg next day.
The room I was in was rather dirty, but much bigger than most American hotels. It was still not a extremely pleasant place to stay, but it was a place to lay my head. I slept as I was to meet with Mr. Fayaz early in the morning to arrange my travel to Gulmarg.
Day 5-6 - Katra
My travel mate, Pooja, and I decide to leave wednesday morning to get to Katra. Katra is a holy city that has the Goddess creator. We take a 2 hour bus trip to get there. When entering the city of Katra we are to meet Pooja’s cousin who happens to own a luxury hotel. This Hotel is rather gorgeous and well designed. It puts just about every hotel I have ever stayed at to shame. Note that I do not really like to stay in luxury hotels. He takes us in and we talk about many things and offers a room to freshen up before we take a hike visit the Goddess’ temple. We take some fantastic photos of the this gorgeous hotel take a courtesy shuttle from the hotel to the pilgrimage entrance.
Now Katra is known for the temple of theVaishno Devi, the creator Goddess of the three major Gods of Hindu religion. She is known for the color red. Also this temple is placed on top of a mountain that is 14 Kilometers high. We climb the mountain, all 14 Km, taking us about 4 1/2 hours, which includes some lively “discussion”. A lot seems to come up when you been hiking for a long time and really tired. We reach the top of the mountain around 3 AM. We spend the night in a dorm and trek back down the mountain while the heat beats down on us. Finally we arrive at the bus depot.
On the ride towards Jammu Pooja gets a phone call informing her that she has an interview back in Bombay for a job. She informs me that she has to leave. We arrive back in Jammu. With the help of Pooja’s parents and helpfulness of Pooja’s cousin I am arranged with a plan to go to Srinagar, with a guide who would help me.